Each Cook Should Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.

Leslie Tyler
Leslie Tyler

A digital strategist and tech journalist with over a decade of experience covering global innovations and market developments.