Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
